Rules are for many reasons.  They provide guidelines for construction, attempt to create a level playing field for all participants, and keep the competition for the Scout classes at a level achievable by any Scout without need for access to specialized tools or skills.  The goal is an event that is fun for the Scouts and pleasant for the adults.

The common official rules that will be used to govern all classes are as follows.  Individual classes may have additional rules, so check those sections as well!

The finished car must:

1. not be longer than 7 inches.
2. not be wider than 2-3/4 inches (including wheels).
3. not be taller than 6 inches in height when free-standing on a flat surface with all wheels in place.
4. have a minimum ground clearance of 3/8 inch.
5. have a minimum width between the wheels of 1-3/4 inches.
6. have all decorations securely affixed to the vehicle.
7. be dry to the touch (finishes, glues, etc.)
8. use weights that are solid and solidly affixed to the vehicle (if added weight is needed).  If you use weights like coins, fishing weights or shot, it must be within epoxy or another substance that will not allow movement.  Loose shot pellets and liquids (like mercury) are forbidden weights. DO NOT ATTACH WEIGHT TO THE BOTTOM OF THE CAR unless you recess it and smooth the bottom.

All cars can:

1. be shorter than 7 inches.
2. be narrower than 2-3/4 inches provide the wheel-width of 1-3/4 inches is met.
3. be as short as desired as long as there is 3/8 inch ground clearance.
4. be decorated with anything or nothing at all.

If you lubricate the wheels, you MUST use dry lubricant applied before entering the facility. 

***There will be no chance to lubricate any vehicle in the facility.***

Registration will be done before the event and during the tech inspection times as listed on the schedule. 

All entries will be brought to the event READY TO RACE.  If lines are long, there won't be any time to adjust the car in any way.  Once checked, the car will be impounded and you will not have access to it for any adjustment or lubricating. 

**All entries will be impounded.  If your car doesn't perform well, you will NOT have an opportunity to make changes before the next heat, so build to win!**

All entries must be inspected before the race starts, so please come as early as possible because the lines do get long. 

To keep things fair, all entries must pass inspection by race officials to qualify for competition in a specific class.  The officials have the right to disqualify any entry for a class that does not meet specifications for that class. 

If your entry does not qualify:

- Entries that do not meet the specifications for a class may be taken out of line, adjusted, and re-inspected with a limit of 3 attempts to pass inspection.  Adjustments will NOT be done at the inspection table!

When your entry does qualify:

- Entries that have passed tech inspection will be impounded until the races are complete. 
- Once impounded, repairs will be limited to replacement of axles/wheels that are broken or lost during a race due to mishandling. 
- There will be no opportunity for lubrication within the facility.


Inspection of each entry will involve placing the entry within a gauge to ensure the dimensions are within tolerance.  If it fits, it's good.

The Cub Scout classes are strictly for the Scouts to build their cars with the help and guidance of their adult partner and race them in competition - a good chance to learn about winning and losing and how to accept either gracefully. 

Rank is determined by Scout Year, which starts on June 1st.  If you will be a Tiger Scout later this year, you will not race as a Tiger Scout this time.  If you are a WEB II this year and have already bridged by race time, you can still compete this season as a WEB II.

In addition to the Official Rules presented in that section, the following guidelines will be applied to the cars allowed to run in any Cub Scout class:

All cars in one of these classes must:

1. be an entry from an active Cub Scout in Pack 733.
2. meet the official specifications for cars entering this event (see the Official Rules section).
3. be made from an official BSA Pinewood Derby Car kit as supplied by the Pack.
4. be of new construction made during the current Scout year.
5. use the BSA-specified wheelbase as indicated by the slots provided in the block.
6. use 4 wheels.
7. be free-running without power-assist of any kind.  This includes stored energy devices, sliding weights, power drives, etc.
8. NOT exceed 5 ounces in weight.
9. NOT use solid axles.
10. NOT use any type of springs or suspension.
11. NOT use any type of wheel bearings, bushings, washers, inserts, or sleeves.
12. NOT be a purchased pre-cut kit or a "completed vehicle".

All cars in one of the Cub Scout classes can:

1. be shaped and built-up in any way that doesn't violate the size restrictions.
2. be decorated in any way that doesn't violate other applicable restrictions.
3. have weight added and subtracted to meet the 5-ounce maximum. 
4. use non-BSA wheels that are at least 1/4-inch in width. If you plan on running at District, you must use BSA-wheels.
5. use dry lubricant in the wheels.  No oils or sprays will be allowed. 

***There will not be any chance to lubricate the vehicle in the facility.***

The reason we run this class is to allow the Cub Scouts a chance to enter a second car if they want to try other things in a class that is more flexible with the rules.  The intent is that each Cub Scout will have an entry in their rank class first and that any entry in this class is a second car.  If a Cub Scout entry is disqualified from racing in a rank class, it may be considered for the Modified class.  An example would be use of a pre-cut kit or an altered wheelbase car.

The rules and restrictions for this class are as follows:

1. Meet the requirements stated in "Official Rules for All Classes" above.
2. Entries in this class must be free-running without power-assist of any kind.  This includes stored energy devices, sliding weights, power drives, etc.
3. Cars in this class may not exceed 5 ounces in weight.
4. Complete or professionally built cars are not allowed.
5. More than one entry is allowed, but only one prize will be awarded per individual.

All cars in this class can:

1. be shaped and built-up in any way that doesn't violate the size restrictions.
2. be decorated in any way that doesn't violate other applicable restrictions.
3. be a car that was raced in a previous year.
4. have weight added and subtracted to meet the 5-ounce maximum.  
5. use 3-wheel configurations
6. use an altered wheelbase
7. use non-BSA wheels.
8. use solid axles, wheel bearings or bushings, and lane guides.
9. use dry lubricant in the wheels.  No oils or sprays will be allowed. 

***There will not be any chance to lubricate the vehicle in the facility.***

The Siblings class is designed to let little brother or sister participate in the Pinewood Derby.  This will get them interested in one of Cub Scouts biggest events.  They can run their own creation, or they can run a car that brother or sister ran in a previous year.

The Siblings class must meet the requirements in the Official Rules section and will be limited by these additional guidelines:

1. Meet the requirements stated in "Official Rules for All Classes" above.
2. Use the BSA-specified wheelbase using the slots provided in the block.
3. Be free-running without power-assist of any kind.  This includes stored energy devices, sliding weights, power drives, etc.
4. NOT exceed 5 ounces in weight.
5. NOT use solid axles.
6. NOT use any type of suspension.
7. NOT use any type of wheel bearings or bushings.

All cars in this class can:

1. be shaped and built-up in any way that doesn't violate the size restrictions.
2. be decorated in any way that doesn't violate other applicable restrictions.
3. have weight added and subtracted to meet the 5-ounce maximum.  However, all added weight must be solid and solidly affixed to the vehicle.  Loose shot pellets and liquids are examples of forbidden weights.
4. use non-BSA wheels that are at least 1/4-inch in width.
5. use dry lubricant in the wheels.  No oils or sprays will be allowed. 

***There will not be any chance to lubricate the vehicle in the facility.***

This class is to give the adults and those that aren't Cub Scouts, but would like to try the Pinewood Derby, a place to run their creation.  Admit it, you'd like to run a car too!  Stop thinking about it and build your own!

The rules and restrictions for this class are as follows:

1. Meet the requirements stated in "Official Rules for All Classes" above.
2. Every entry must meet the requirements in the Official Rules section.
3. Car kits are available from the pack for $5
4. More than one entry is allowed. 
5. Scouts entering in this class must have an entry in their rank class first.
6. Cars in this class may not exceed 5 ounces in weight

All cars in this class can:

1. be shaped and built-up in any way that doesn't violate the size restrictions.
2. be decorated in any way that doesn't violate other applicable restrictions.
3. have weight added and subtracted to meet the 5-ounce maximum.  However, all added weight must be solid and solidly affixed to the vehicle.  Loose shot pellets and liquids are examples of forbidden weights.
4. use 3-wheel configurations
5. use an altered wheelbase
6. use non-BSA wheels.
7. use solid axles, wheel bearings or bushings, and lane guides.
8. use dry lubricant in the wheels.  No oils or sprays will be allowed. 

***There will not be any chance to lubricate the vehicle in the facility.***

This class is invitational to include the Girl Scouts in our area.

All entries in this class must:

1. Meet the requirements stated in "Official Rules for All Classes" above;
2. Be free-running without power-assist of any kind.  This includes stored energy devices, sliding weights, power drives, etc.;
3. Use dry lubricant in the wheels only applied outside and prior to entering the facility.  No oils or sprays will be allowed. 

Entries in this class will not:

1. Be a pre-cut or professionally built car;
2. Exceed 5 ounces in weight;
3. Use any type of suspension;
4. Use any type of wheel bearings or bushings.

***There will not be any chance to lubricate the vehicle in the facility.***

RACING:

The goal is to have all cars run at least once in all of the three lanes.

Races will be run in heats.  As cars are called up, the car owners will be invited to take a seat at the slowdown area of the track. 

At the completion of the run, the car owners will bring their entries back to the impound area to be ready for the next heat.


AWARDS:

First place trophies will be awarded for each Den of each Cub Scout rank.


In addition to the racing classes, Cub Scouts of Pack 733 will receive awards for:

• Most Scout Spirit 
• Most Patriotic  
• Most Realistic Race Car
• Best Paint 
• Simplest Design
• Most Creative 
• Cubmaster's Choice

 

In this section we'll share tips, tricks, and hints that we learn along the journey toward building a great-performing Pinewood Derby race car!  All tips will be presented to be understood by the boys building the cars, so don't expect any physics lessons here!

TIP: Run the maximum weight allowed.

The Pinewood Derby track is a downhill that transitions to a flat area toward the finish line.  The only thing that will propel the car across that flat area is the amount of energy that can be built up in the downhill area.  In other words, the faster your car is going at the bottom of the hill, the more likely it is to do well across the flat area.  In scientific terms, your car has potential energy that is converted to kinetic energy as it races down the hill.  That kinetic energy is what will take your car to the finish line! 

The limit for cars that scouts build is 5 ounces.  Your entry should be as close to that as possible without going over.

TRICK: Be ready to adjust your weight

Build your car so you can add or subtract weight easily.  I use a set of wood screws.  It is possible for cars to absorb moisture if it's humid.  If the car is over by a little, take out a screw or two.  If it's a little light, add a couple of screws.  If you prefer, build it a little light and bring weight to add.  Having it close and using weight tape sold for balancing ceiling fans would be a good plan.  It's easier to add weight than it is to remove it.

______________________

TIP: Your enemy is friction.  Fight the friction monster!

Friction will slow your car.  It's like the brakes on your bicycle or in the car.  When you apply the brakes, you create friction and that slows you down.  You don't want anything to slow down your Pinewood Derby car!

Where is friction?  Anywhere a moving surface contacts a non-moving surface.  That means if your wheels touch the car body, there is friction.  Even where your wheels touch the axles (nails), there will be friction.

Apply lubrication to any point of friction to lessen its ability to slow your car.

TRICK: Lubricate the body!

Take a bit of lubricant and rub it into the area of your car body around the axle hole.  This way when the wheel rubs the body, it won't be like putting on the brakes!

______________________

TIP: Alignment for straight running

Alignment of your wheels is important.  If your car is constantly trying to turn a corner, it will drag on the center rail of the track slowing it down.

TRICK: Check your alignment

One way to test alignment of your wheels is to roll the car on a hard, flat surface.  Mom may not like you rolling your car on her countertop, so look for someplace else.  The best thing to use is a sheet of glass with a line drawn on it with a marker.  Tilt the glass slightly and let the car roll down the glass to see if it rolls straight or turns.  If it turns, you can bend the nails slightly to get things rolling straight.

HINT: Polish your axles

The nails that come with the Pinewood Derby kit aren't perfect.  There are edges and rough areas that will cut into your wheels.  Take a file or sandpaper and smooth these areas out.  Keep polishing them until they shine.  Remember, you only need to do the area by the nail head that the wheel will spin on, not the entire nail.

______________________

______________________

______________________

Here are questions I've heard and come across.  The answers are specific to Pack 733 rules.

Question: What do I use to weight the car?

733 Answer: Before getting into this, lets discuss safety.  We should not use substances like mercury or bullets as a source of weight.  Lead is dangerous as well, so just be careful and don't handle it without disposable gloves and wash afterward.  CUT lead, never sand it!!

Just about anything can be used to weight the car to get it to 5 ounces.  Wheel weights for automotive tires are used quite often (these are usually lead, so be careful).  Coins work, as do washers, fishing weights (sometimes lead), lead wire, and metals like tungsten.  There are BSA-approved weights that work really well too.  Some are plates that screw to the car and some are in other shapes.  Whatever the shape, the weights must be secure.



Q: Where do I put the weight?

A: The weight can be placed anywhere on or in the vehicle.  Just remember that anything attached to the car must be within the limits of height, length, and width.

Be concerned with the center of mass (COM).  This is where the car would balance if you set it on the tip of a pencil.  There are several thoughts: front, middle, rear, and to the side.

Side-weighting: There are thoughts that adding weight to one side or the other (front, middle, or rear) can make the car turn slightly.  If it turns ever so slightly, then it will be more stable as it goes down the track because it'll gently ride the center of the track instead of going back and forth.

Front-weighting: The thought here is that having the COM in the front will help pull the car down the hill for a faster run. 

Mid-weighting: Putting the weight so the COM is nearer to the center of the car will make it run with greater stability in the flat section.  This can be accomplished by placing weight in the center, or by placing weight in the front and the rear - kinda like balancing a see-saw.  Some like to do this to keep all wheels on the track.

Rear-weighting: The thinking for this is that since we're trying to get the car rolling as fast as possible down a hill, the longer the hill the faster the car will be going at the bottom.  Since the length of the hill is fixed, the only way to get an advantage would be to move the car's COM as far up the hill as possible.  That would mean placing it toward the rear of the vehicle. 


Q: The rule is for 7 inches.  Can the car be shorter than 7 inches?

A: Yes.  The length rule is the MAXIMUM.  The only thing that limits how short the car will be is the axle position - assuming you're in a class that doesn't allow altered wheelbases.


Q: My car weighs 5.002 ounces.  Can I race it?

A: No.  There has to be a cutoff somewhere, so 5.000 is the limit.  If 5.002 were allowed to slip through because it's only .002 oz, then why not allow 5.003 since that's only .001 oz more?